Acne Treatment in London

Acne is the most treatable skin condition there is, provided the plan matches the type. I am a GP as well as an aesthetic doctor, so prescription treatment and in-clinic treatment sit in the same plan.

Acne develops when the pore becomes blocked with oil and dead cells, bacteria multiply in the blocked follicle, and the skin responds with inflammation. Hormones drive the oil, which is why it peaks in the teens, around the menstrual cycle and with polycystic ovary syndrome, and why adult acne along the jaw is common in women in their thirties. Treatment is matched to the type and severity: comedonal acne to exfoliating and retinoid skincare, inflammatory acne to those plus peels, light and prescription treatment, and nodular acne to prescription treatment first. The aim is to clear the breakouts and, above all, to stop scarring.

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GMC

Registered Doctor

MRCS

Royal College of Surgeons

Doctor-led
Medical and skincare

ABOUT ACNE

What causes acne

Four things happen in sequence. The lining of the pore sheds cells too fast and they stick together, blocking the opening. The sebaceous gland, stimulated by androgens, produces more oil behind the block. Cutibacterium acnes, a normal skin bacterium, multiplies in the trapped oil. The immune system responds, and the result is a red papule, a pustule, or, when the follicle wall ruptures deep in the skin, a nodule or cyst. Genetics decide how strongly each step runs; hormones, stress, some medications, occlusive cosmetics and, in some people, high-glycaemic diet and dairy turn the dial.

Acne is graded by what is present. Comedonal acne is blackheads and whiteheads without much inflammation. Mild inflammatory acne is papules and pustules. Moderate acne is more of them, spreading across the face, chest or back. Severe acne is nodules and cysts, which are the lesions that scar. Adult female acne is its own pattern: deep, tender lesions along the jaw and chin that flare before a period. The grade decides the treatment, and the higher grades need prescription treatment early because every cyst that is left to run its course risks a permanent scar.

What treatment does not do: no skincare clears nodular acne, no facial cures hormonal acne, and no single product works in less than eight weeks. Acne treatment is a course, judged at twelve weeks. Post-acne marks and true scars are treated differently and are covered on my acne scarring page; congestion without inflammation is covered under blackheads and enlarged pores.

WHICH TYPE IS YOURS

Four types of acne, and the treatment for each

I grade acne by counting and classifying lesions at assessment, the same way a dermatologist does. The grade decides the plan.

Comedonal: blackheads and whiteheads

Blocked pores without much redness. Retinoid and salicylic skincare, Hydrofacial, light peels.

Mild to moderate inflammatory

Red papules and pustules. Skincare plus peels, LED and prescription topical treatment.

Nodular and cystic

Deep, painful lumps that scar. Prescription treatment first; in-clinic treatment supports.

Adult hormonal acne

Jawline and chin, cyclical, often in women over 25. Prescription options plus barrier-friendly skincare.

Acne with early scarring

Active acne and marks together. Clear the acne first; scars are treated once it is quiet.

HOW I ASSESS

How I plan acne treatment

The assessment takes 30 minutes. I grade the acne by lesion type and distribution, look for early scarring and pigmentation, ask about the pattern, cycle, medication, diet, skincare and previous treatment, and, where the history suggests it, discuss whether blood tests for a hormonal cause are worthwhile. I photograph face, and chest or back if affected, so we measure progress at twelve weeks rather than guess.

Then I build a plan on two tracks. The home track is a prescription retinoid or an evidence-based topical from the prescription retinoid programme, a salicylic or benzoyl-peroxide cleanser, a non-comedogenic moisturiser and SPF, because most acne skin is being over-stripped. The clinic track depends on grade: Hydrofacial with extractions for congestion, salicylic or BioRePeel peels and the Obagi Blue Radiance peel for inflammatory acne, LED blue and red light to reduce bacteria and inflammation, and IPL for the redness left behind. For moderate and severe acne, as a GP I prescribe the oral and topical treatments set out in NICE guidance, and where isotretinoin is indicated I refer to a dermatologist without delay, because the scarring risk of waiting is real.

I review at six weeks and twelve weeks with photographs. Acne treatment that has not started to work by twelve weeks is changed, not continued.

“Acne is very treatable, but the plan has to fit the person: the type of acne, the cause, and the skin. I focus on settling breakouts and protecting against scarring, combining skincare, in-clinic treatments and prescription options where they are needed.”

Dr Chiké Emeagi, MRCGP, GMC 4418489

WHICH TREATMENT FOR WHICH ACNE

Matching the treatment to the type

Grading first, treatment second. The realistic-result column is what I say in the room.

The type	What I use	What it does	When you see it	Course	Realistic result
Comedonal acne, congestion	Hydrofacial with extractions, salicylic skincare	Clears blocked pores and exfoliates the lining that blocks them	Immediately after; sustained with skincare	Monthly, 3 sessions	Clear, refined skin; maintained with a retinoid at home
Mild inflammatory acne	Salicylic or BioRePeel peel plus topical treatment	Exfoliates, reduces oil and bacteria, calms inflammation	4 to 8 weeks	3 to 6 peels, 2 to 4 weeks apart	Fewer new spots and faster clearing of existing ones; not a cure
Moderate inflammatory acne	Obagi Blue Radiance peel plus prescription treatment	Deeper salicylic peel with a prescription topical or oral course as NICE recommends	8 to 12 weeks	3 peels plus a 12-week prescription course	Most patients are clear or nearly clear at 12 weeks
Inflammatory acne, any grade	LED blue and red light	Blue light reduces C. acnes; red light reduces inflammation	4 to 6 weeks	Twice weekly for 4 to 6 weeks	Supports other treatment; modest on its own
Nodular and cystic acne	Prescription treatment; dermatology referral for isotretinoin where indicated	Oral treatment addresses the deep inflammation that topicals cannot reach	6 to 12 weeks	12 weeks minimum	Clearance and, above all, prevention of scars; in-clinic treatment is secondary
Adult hormonal acne	Prescription options plus barrier-friendly skincare and gentle peels	Addresses the androgen drive; peels manage the surface	8 to 12 weeks	Ongoing	Fewer, smaller cyclical flares; managed rather than cured
Red marks after acne	IPL and red LED	Targets the dilated vessels in post-inflammatory redness	2 to 4 weeks after each session	3 sessions	Red marks fade months faster than they would alone
Brown marks after acne	Pigment-inhibiting skincare, retinoid, SPF; gentle peels in suitable skin	Reduces melanin production and speeds turnover	8 to 12 weeks	Ongoing	Marks lighten over months; SPF prevents new ones
Acne on the chest and back	Salicylic peels, LED, prescription treatment	Same principles, thicker skin, more oral treatment	8 to 12 weeks	As above	Clearance is slower than the face and scarring risk is higher

Prescription treatments follow NICE guideline NG198 on acne vulgaris, which sets out first-line topical combinations, when to add oral treatment, and when to refer. The blog post on whether IPL works for acne covers the light-based evidence honestly, and Hydrofacial versus peels helps with the first decision.

COMBINING TREATMENTS

Acne plans by grade, and the order I use

Every plan has a home track and a clinic track. These are the combinations I use most.

Plan	For whom	Order and spacing	Typical cost
Retinoid programme + Hydrofacial x3	Comedonal acne and congestion	Skincare from day one; Hydrofacial monthly	£375 plus skincare
Topical prescription + BioRePeel x3 + LED	Mild inflammatory acne	Topical from day one; peel every 3 weeks; LED weekly between	£450 plus prescription
Prescription course + Obagi Blue Radiance x3	Moderate inflammatory acne	Prescription from day one; peels every 4 weeks from week 2	£500 plus prescription
Prescription treatment, then IPL x3	Inflammatory acne leaving red marks	Clear the acne first; IPL once quiet, monthly	£500 plus prescription
Dermatology referral + barrier skincare	Nodular or cystic acne	Referral at the first visit; skincare to protect the barrier during treatment	Consultation £50 plus skincare
Prescription options + Hydrofacial + gentle peels	Adult hormonal acne	Prescription from day one; Hydrofacial monthly; peels between flares	Quoted at consultation

Costs are sums of listed clinic prices. Prescription medicines are charged at pharmacy cost and are not advertised here.

RESULTS

Results and what to expect

Acne treatment is judged at twelve weeks, not two. Comedonal acne improves within a month of consistent skincare and the first Hydrofacial. Inflammatory acne on a proper plan shows fewer new lesions by six weeks and is usually clear or nearly clear by twelve. Nodular acne on prescription treatment improves over the same period and the point is that it stops scarring. Red and brown marks lag behind the acne by months and are treated once the skin is quiet.

The honest expectations: acne is controlled rather than cured, so maintenance skincare continues after the clinic course; hormonal acne flares cyclically and is managed; and a purge of small spots in the first two to four weeks of a retinoid is expected and passes. Scarring is the one outcome I treat as urgent, because it is the one that is permanent.

I photograph at the start, at six weeks and at twelve weeks, so we compare against evidence rather than memory.

WHAT TO EXPECT

Recovery, downtime and aftercare

Hydrofacial and LED. No downtime. Mild pinkness for an hour.

Salicylic peel and BioRePeel. Redness for a few hours, light flaking for two to three days. No retinoid for three days either side. SPF daily.

Obagi Blue Radiance peel. Redness for a day and visible peeling for three to five days. Stop retinoids five days before. Strict SPF for two weeks.

IPL. Redness for a few hours; treated marks darken briefly before fading. No sun exposure for two weeks before and after, which is why IPL is planned for autumn and winter.

Prescription retinoids. Dryness, peeling and a purge in the first two to four weeks; start twice a week and build up. Not in pregnancy.

You leave with written aftercare, a written skincare routine and my direct contact details.

IS THIS FOR ME?

Is this the right acne plan for you?

Every grade of acne can be improved. What differs is how much of the plan is clinic-based and how much is prescription.

A good candidate for a clinic-led plan

Comedonal, mild or moderate inflammatory acne. Congestion and oiliness. Post-acne red or brown marks with the acne now quiet. Willing to follow a home routine for twelve weeks.

Needs prescription treatment first

Moderate acne not responding to topicals. Nodules or cysts. Acne that is scarring. Adult hormonal acne with a clear cyclical pattern. As a GP I prescribe these at the same consultation and refer to dermatology where isotretinoin is indicated.

Not suitable now

Pregnant or breastfeeding for retinoids, most oral treatments and some peels. Active cold sores or skin infection for peels. Recent isotretinoin for resurfacing treatments, which wait six months after the course.

PRICING

What it costs to treat acne

Every price includes the consultation, the treatment, a review and written aftercare. The £50 consultation fee is redeemed against treatment. Prescription medicines are charged at pharmacy cost.

Treatment	What it does	Price
Hydrofacial, 60 minutes	Deep clean with extractions	£125
BioRePeel, course of 3	Mild inflammatory acne and congestion	£250
ZO Stimulator peel, course of 3	Gentle exfoliating peel	£300
Obagi Blue Radiance peel, course of 3	Moderate inflammatory acne	£500
LED light therapy, per session	Blue and red light	£50
IPL full face, course of 3	Post-acne redness	£500
Consultation with prescription review	Grading, plan, prescription where indicated	£50, redeemed against treatment

Prices are from the clinic price list. The prescription retinoid programme is priced by product.

WHY US

Why choose Hampstead Aesthetics

Acne sits between two worlds: the facialist who cannot prescribe and the GP who has ten minutes and no peels. I am both. I am a Member of the Royal College of General Practitioners and a GMC-registered doctor (4418489) with a master’s degree in aesthetic medicine, so the prescription course and the in-clinic course are planned together, by the same person, against the same photographs. Where a patient needs a dermatologist, I say so at the first visit.

Every assessment and treatment is carried out or supervised by me. The clinic is on West End Lane in West Hampstead, NW6, two minutes from West Hampstead station, and sees patients from Swiss Cottage, St John’s Wood, Belsize Park, Primrose Hill and across North London.

HOME CARE

The home routine that does most of the work

Acne is cleared at home and supported in clinic, not the other way round. The routine is short: a salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide cleanser, a prescription retinoid at night introduced gradually, a light non-comedogenic moisturiser, and SPF 50 every morning, which prevents the marks that outlast the spots. No scrubs, no stripping toners, no picking. I prescribe through the prescription retinoid programme and stock ZO Skin Health for patients who want a structured system. The evidence base for all of this is set out in NICE guideline NG198.

PATIENT REVIEWS

What patients say

Google 4.8 ★★★★★

Dr Chike is a skilled injector and always careful not to overdo anything. When I started to notice a bit of volume loss and the first signs of stress on my face he helped restore my confidence.

I had the pleasure of meeting Dr Chike, he is professional and knowledgeable and truly skilled in facial anatomy and proportions. My results look natural and beautifully balanced.

Dr Chike is the only person I would trust with my treatments. He has vast experience, is kind and provides holistic care, I cannot recommend him more.

TRUSTED BRANDS

Clinically validated products we use

I work only with clinically validated, CE-marked products and devices sourced from authorised UK distributors. Prescription medicines are dispensed through a registered UK pharmacy.

WHO IS YOUR PRACTITIONER

Medical Governance & Practitioner Verification

Dr Chike Emeagi - GMC Registration No. 4418489

At Hampstead Aesthetics, every acne assessment is carried out by Dr Chike Emeagi, a fully registered medical doctor and GP whose qualifications and licence to practise are publicly verifiable.

MRCGP - Member of the Royal College of General Practitioners
MRCS - Member of the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh
MSc Aesthetic Medicine - Postgraduate master's degree in aesthetic clinical practice
GMC Licensed - Full licence to practise, verifiable on the public medical register

You are encouraged to verify Dr Chike’s registration directly on the https://www.gmc-uk.org/doctors/4418489 GMC’s online medical register before booking. Any doctor practising without a valid GMC licence is doing so illegally.

DOCTOR LED TREATMENT

Why Doctor Led Matters

Most acne treatments that work at moderate and severe grades are prescription-only medicines. They can only be prescribed after an assessment by a doctor or another qualified prescriber, and they should be reviewed by the person who prescribed them. Peels, light and Hydrofacial are not medicines and can be offered in any salon; the difference here is that they are planned alongside the prescription, not instead of it.

At Hampstead Aesthetics I grade the acne, prescribe where it is indicated, plan the clinic treatments, and review the photographs at six and twelve weeks. Where a dermatologist is needed, the referral is made at the first visit.

YOUR SAFETY

Emergency Safety Protocols

Anaphylaxis kit on site — full adrenaline protocol for allergic reaction.
ACE-certified practitioner — I hold emergency complication management certification.
999 escalation protocol — written procedures for emergency hospital transfer.

Every product and device is CE-marked and sourced from authorised UK distributors. The clinic holds full professional indemnity insurance covering all treatments.

CONSENT

Consent, Privacy & Your Rights

Before treatment you have a full written consultation covering medical history, contraindications, realistic outcomes and the specific risks of each treatment in your plan. Treatment only proceeds with informed, documented consent. If you have a concern, raise it with me directly; if it is not resolved, you can escalate to the General Medical Council.

Your consultation, treatment and review are all conducted by the same doctor. There are no hand-offs.

Reviewed September 2026. Dr Chike Emeagi, GMC No. 4418489. Regulatory position correct at date of review; licensing of non-surgical cosmetic procedures in England is subject to change.

FAQ's

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best treatment for acne?

The one matched to your grade. Comedonal acne clears with a retinoid, salicylic skincare and Hydrofacial. Mild to moderate inflammatory acne needs those plus peels, light and usually a prescription topical. Nodular and cystic acne needs prescription treatment first, because it scars. There is no single best treatment, and anyone offering one for every acne is offering the wrong one for most.

How long does acne treatment take to work?

Eight to twelve weeks for any treatment that works, which is why I review at six weeks and judge at twelve. Retinoids cause a purge of small spots in the first two to four weeks before the skin improves. A plan that has shown no change by twelve weeks is changed, not continued.

Can a chemical peel cure acne?

No treatment cures acne; peels control it. Salicylic peels and the Obagi Blue Radiance peel exfoliate the pore lining, reduce oil and bacteria and calm inflammation, and a course of three to six clears mild to moderate acne faster than skincare alone. They do not reach nodular acne, which needs prescription treatment.

Does LED light therapy work for acne?

As a support, yes. Blue light reduces the bacteria in the follicle and red light reduces inflammation, and twice-weekly sessions for four to six weeks lessen new spots. On its own the effect is modest; alongside skincare and peels it is worthwhile. My LED page sets out the evidence.

Do I need antibiotics or isotretinoin?

That depends on grade. NICE recommends topical combinations first for mild to moderate acne, oral treatment added for moderate acne that is not responding, and referral for isotretinoin for nodular or scarring acne. As a GP I prescribe the first two at the consultation and refer for the third without delay. Prescription medicines are not advertised on this page; suitability is decided in the room.

Is my acne hormonal?

Acne along the jaw and chin that flares in the week before a period, in a woman over 25, usually is. It responds less to peels and more to prescription options that address the androgen drive, alongside barrier-friendly skincare. Where the history suggests polycystic ovary syndrome I discuss blood tests, because treating the cause treats the acne.

Does diet cause acne?

Not on its own, but it turns the dial in some people. The evidence is best for high-glycaemic diets and, in some, dairy, particularly skimmed milk. Chocolate and greasy food have no consistent evidence. I ask about diet at assessment and suggest a trial change where the pattern fits; I do not prescribe a diet as a treatment.

How much does acne treatment cost?

Hydrofacial is £125, a course of three BioRePeel sessions £250, three Obagi Blue Radiance peels £500, LED £50 a session and three IPL sessions £500. A typical clinic-led plan for mild acne is around £450 plus skincare; for moderate acne around £500 plus the prescription at pharmacy cost. The £50 consultation fee is redeemed against treatment.

Will acne treatment prevent scarring?

Clearing inflammatory acne early is the only reliable way to prevent scars, which is why nodular acne is treated as urgent. Scars form from deep lesions that are left to run or are squeezed. Once the acne is quiet, existing scars are assessed separately and treated with resurfacing; see my acne scarring page.

What should I stop using?

Scrubs, stripping toners, alcohol-based products and anything that leaves the skin tight, because a damaged barrier makes acne worse and stops it tolerating treatment. Heavy, occlusive make-up and hair products that reach the skin. Picking, which turns a spot that would heal into a scar that will not.

Can I have acne treatment on my back or chest?

Yes. The principles are the same; the skin is thicker, oil production higher and scarring risk greater, so oral prescription treatment is used sooner and peels are stronger. Body acne is slower to clear than the face and I say so at the outset.

Can I have peels while on prescription treatment?

Usually, with timing. Topical retinoids are paused for a few days around a peel. Oral antibiotics are compatible. Isotretinoin is not: peels, laser and microneedling wait six months after the course ends. I coordinate this because I prescribe and treat in the same plan.

Arrange your acne consultation

If your acne is not responding to what you are using, a 30-minute assessment grades it properly and gives you a plan on both tracks: what to use at home, what to have in clinic, and whether prescription treatment is needed. I will quote in writing and refer if a dermatologist is the right next step. Patients come from West Hampstead, NW6 and across North London. Related: Acne scarring, Blackheads and enlarged pores, Hyperpigmentation.

VISIT US

Our London Clinic

Nearest Tube: West Hampstead (Jubilee Line) · 2 min walk

Overground: West Hampstead Overground · 3 min walk

Parking: Pay & Display on West End Lane

Proudly serving clients from:

West Hampstead · Hampstead · Primrose Hill · St John’s Wood · Belsize Park · Camden · Swiss Cottage · Finchley Road · Maida Vale · Queen’s Park · Highgate · Kentish Town

Reviewed by Dr Chiké Emeagi, MBBS, MRCGP, MRCS, GMC No. 4418489.

Last reviewed September 2026. This page is for information only and does not replace a medical consultation. Results vary between individuals and are not guaranteed. All treatments carry potential risks, which are discussed before any procedure. Prescription-only medicines are not advertised on this page. Prices are taken from the clinic price list at the date of review. Hampstead Aesthetics, 269 West End Lane, West Hampstead, London NW6 1QS.

Book Your Consultation

Unsure where to start? Schedule a personalised consultation with Dr. Chiké or a member of the team to explore your options